Notes from Aboveground: May 2011

In the past few weeks I've had the pleasure of going to a few different markets here in Russia, and I thought some of you might be interested in my experiences.

The first Russian market that I ever went to is an indoor one that's a few blocks from my school here. In late February (when 0degC still seemed like impossible warmth) my Speech Practicum class took a field trip to the market to supplement the unit we were doing at the time--vocabulary about food and how to buy food.

Growing up in Boston and Toronto, my only experiences with markets were Faneuil Hall (which stretches the definition a bit) and St. Lawrence market. Of course, being in Russia, the market near the Dostoevskaya metro stop was quite different than either of those other markets.

As we walked through the warehouse-like building, which looked much older on the outside than in, our professor pointed out the different products for sale and at each group of stalls prodded one of us to ask a seller about their wares. First, Alden was told to ask about flowers (what are they called, how much per bloom, etc.) then Dan was roped into talking with the tvorog sellers (sampling several variations of the cottage-cheese-like substance, asking about prices, but not buying any). I was then volunteered to talk to a honey seller, which I was actually glad of, because it's rare that Americans get to try the huge variation that exists in Russian honey, as it's illegal to take any out of the country.

My biggest surprises at the market were: the fresh fruit, until I learned much of it was from Greece, not Russia; the live fish in tanks--calling to mind restaurant lobster; and the whole rabbits, which were skinned except for the fur that remained on their feet and tails. Upon seeing the rabbits, our professor told us that if that part of the market interested us, we could go for a closer look, but she'd be staying where she was--safely about 20 meters away.

Of course, no Russian market would be complete without a pickle section and a dried fish display. For the uninitiated out there, in Russia a pickle does not only mean a pickled cucumber (as it does in American English). For Russians, anything and everything can be salted, dilled, and soaked in brine including, but not limited to: cucumbers, garlic, tomatoes, onions, green onions, carrots, and cabbage (aka sauerkraut). In markets, where nothing is displayed in a jar, the smell of the pickles can be pretty overwhelming even from 5 meters away. The sellers must be immune to the odor or something.

The other Russian food staple that is, I think, less well known in the West, is dried fish. Keep in mind, this is not done with every fish, there's a very specific type that is dried out and served (allegedly) with vodka for men who are watching sporting events. Which makes it kind of the Russian equivalent of tortilla chips. But much grosser. These fish still have their eyes and, I assume, all of their guts, when Russian men (and it is only men, as far as I can tell, who eat them) bite off the heads and then do a shot of vodka to wash it all down. To be fair, I've never actually seen these fish consumed, but I doubt that my imagination is inaccurate.

My next market experience was not until a couple of months later, during my group's final day in Sochi. In preparation for our 45-hour train ride, we left our luggage in a guarded room (камера хранения--tough to translate) and walked to the market down the street to stock up on food.

The market in Sochi was an amazing sight and something that you would never see in America (USDA would not approve of birds landing on fruit that was being sold). There were 4 unique parts of the market: the butchers and dairy products that were inside a building; the picklers and spicers under a large awning just outside, which still felt inside-ish; the pomegranate and other fruit and vegetable sellers who had little awnings over their stands outside; and the various sellers who had set up underneath the large tent roof that covered most of the courtyard next to the building not covered by the aforementioned awnings.

Unfortunately, I was too self-conscious to take any pictures of the market, so that vague explanation will have to suffice for now. If any of you ever go to Sochi, though, I'd definitely put the market on the list of sites to visit--don't let the locals convince you that the only stuff worth seeing is the construction sites for the Olympics and the boardwalk that's lined with souvenir shops.

In case you need more enticement, here are a few of the sights of the market: about 30 butchers, each with their own counter, one who had placed an entire pig's head next to the day's offerings. I guess the lack of flies surrounding the jaundiced thing was supposed to indicate the freshness of the meat on the table? Also, string cheese that's actually in the form of string--like balls of yarn, but cheese! About 10 fresh strawberries for about a dollar, pickled carrots (yum!), steamed squid, and lots and lots of spices rounded out the offerings.

I've also explored a few of the other markets in St. Petersburg recently, including a trip back to the souvenir place where I bought my hat, this time for a magnet that I successfully got for 60% of the original price, adding to my growing confidence in confrontational Russian. I also briefly walked around the "book fair" (direct translation, really more like an indoor market that has books, jewelry, souvenirs, and bags) but refrained from buying anything because as my date of departure looms nearer, I've begun worrying about the weight limit for baggage and fitting all of my stuff into my bags. I did, however, at a third market, get a new duffel (with wheels!) which will hopefully hold my winter coat and books without being over 23 kg.

The place where I bought the new bag is next to the biggest clothing/souvenir/random junk market I've ever seen (it took about 45 mins to walk the length of it with minimal stopping). Definitely somewhere to revisit this summer when I've got more time and more space in my luggage.

I return to the United States in 4 days. This semester has gone by so quickly! Slightly disappointed to be leaving after only 2 weeks of real spring, but thankfully I'll be returning in a month. It's going to be weird to return to the land of racial diversity, drivers who obey traffic laws, and sunsets at 7pm (it's twilight here until about midnight now).

So thanks to all who care enough to read this blog, stay tuned for my re-entry into America, several delayed stories from my semester experience, and come back at the end of June for my return to the motherland!

Notes from Aboveground

Sunday, May 15, 2011

This little piggy went to market

Friday, May 6, 2011

A promise of more to come